Split

Split is a coastal city about 100 miles north of Dubrovnik, a nice stop and jumping off point for exploring the Dalmatian coast. Unfortunately, boats to Dubrovnik run only on Sundays and Mondays, so I have to shitcan that idea and just take the bus. Hopefully I'll have a nice window seat with a view of the water.

I took the night train from Zagreb, my last train leg for this trip. I had high hopes of fulfilling my fantasy of sharing a compartment with 5 cute coeds (boom chick-a bow-wow!) in search of themselves; instead, I get 3 sweaty Croats (dudes, of course). It didn't take long before that compartment started smelling like B.O., bad breath and moldy dog ass, my contribution to which being more than I care to imagine. We arrive in Split at 6 this morning, so I stow my bag and hit the sights before the city wakes up. The main attraction of the city, besides being on the Adriatic, is the Roman Emperor Diocletian's retirement home, a 600x600' palace right in the middle of the city.

Here in Croatia people don't greet you with "Hello." Instead, they say "Sobe?" which means "room." An underground industry of renting out private rooms to backpackers seems to flourish here, so I decide what the hell. I talk to an old lady, we agree on a price (160 kuna, about 25 bucks) and follow her home, about 5 minutes outside of the town center. I thought it was her home, but I think she's just a runner, because the owners of the home have already prepared their living room for me. Just like staying at grandma's house.