30 December 2005
Aught 5: Best. Year. Ever.
This blog is an example. In the past, I really wanted to make stronger connections to the people I know and care about, to share what's going on in my life, yet couldn't (or wouldn't) for whatever reason. I mean, shit, it took me months to tell my closest friends and family about the divorce and I just don't want to be like that anymore. This is a good start, I think.
People are noticing, too, which helps validate the whole process, to let me know that I've made progress. A coworker of mine, whom I've known for, jeez, 10 years now remarked to me some time ago "It's good to have the old you back." I wanted to say that the old me is gone forever, replaced with something better, but I know what he meant.
I accept change as a process that should be embraced, rather than fought. I am comfortable with ambiguity. I am as old as I feel. I'm learning how to network. I understand the difference between fashion and style. I'll look you in the eye and not get uncomfortable. Among other things.
It's a good start, and there's always things to work on, such as being more confident in myself and projecting that outwards, but now the setbacks won't send me spiraling into days or weeks of depression. At the risk of sounding terribly sentimental, I'm looking forward to seeing all of you in '06; no matter how long we've known each other, y'all should know that I appreciate your friendship and support very much. Have a good year.
-Fred
30 November 2005
Quite possibly the coolest thing ever
I'm not one to lust over material possessions (ok, I really am), but how badass is this? I'm not sure I quite buy the claims made by the seller, in particular the passenger capacity, but I'm thinking I could pull some mad trim driving this thing around, so alls I need is room for one more...Love the name.
The JL421 Badonkadonk is a completely unique, extremely rare land vehicle and battle tank. Designed with versatility in mind, the Donk can transport cargo or a crew of five internally or on the roof, and can be piloted from within the armored shell or from an exposed standing position through the hatch, thanks to special one-way steel mesh armor windows and a control stick that pivots up and down to allow piloting from the standing or seated positions. The interior is fully carpeted and cozy, with accent lighting and room for up to five people. A 400 watt premium sound system with PA is mounted to project sound both into the cabin and outward from behind the windows. The exterior is a steel shell with a rust patina, and features head and tail lights, turn signal lights, trim lighting, underbody lighting, fixed slats protecting the windows, and a unique industrial-strength rubberized flexible skirt that shields and protects the wheels to within an inch of the ground, while still allowing for enough flex to give clearance over bumpy and uneven terrain.
01 November 2005
"I literally exploded with laughter..."
“literally” has been so overused as a sort of vague intensifier that it is in danger of losing its literal meaning. It should be used to distinguish between a figurative and a literal meaning of a phrase. It should not be used as a synonym for “actually” or “really.”Is this part of the so-called dumbing down of America? It's basic English, people. Or is it an example of the constantly changing nature of language? I always strive for precision with language, whether it's speaking or writing, so ventures like this are appreciated. The sad thing is that most of the examples come from journalists and writers who, presumably, should know better. And what about their editors?
29 October 2005
4 foot rule, my ass
18 September 2005
A dime and a nickel
Long story short: qualified "yes" to each of those questions...sure, our lives are much different now than they were when we were 18, our circles are much wider (along with the waistlines), but as we caught up with each other's lives, it started to feel familiar, the old jokes were still funny, the memories good...we're the same, but different. It'll be nice to get reacquainted.
As I was leaving the party, RT called my car a "yuppie car." Yup, he hasn't changed, though coming from a Volvo driver, I don't think he has much leg to stand on.
14 September 2005
RIP
I'm not sad-J wouldn't allow it if he were here anyway. Everyone at the office has been preparing for this day for some time, so while the mood was more somber than usual, it was business as usual, which I'm sure he would want. I'll attend the memorial and hopefully learn something new about J.
Bruce Lee, bringer of peace and unity
How cool is this? Generations of ethnic conflict in Europe possibly healed by Lee's example:
"The ethnically divided Bosnian city of Mostar has agreed to erect a new symbol of unity -- a statue of kung fu legend Bruce Lee, worshipped by Muslims, Serbs and Croats.A group of enthusiasts came up with the idea of honoring the childhood hero of the city's ethnic groups in 2003, on the 30th anniversary of his death. They launched the project, found donors and waited a year for the city's approval.
"We plan to erect the statue in November in the center of the city," Veselin Gatalo, a member of the Urban Movement organization, told Reuters by telephone on Monday.
This will be a monument to universal justice that Mostar needs more than any other city I know.
He said Mostar, scene of fighting between Muslims and Croats in 1993-1994, needed a symbol of justice, mastery and honesty -- virtues upheld by the late Chinese-American actor."
Having only been to Croatia, I see the conflict mainly from their perspective, and have tended to sympathize with them, though I'm sure that all parties acted just as horribly during the war.
06 September 2005
New addition to the family...sort of.
Which brings me to the present. Mom's sister, B, along with uncle R and the two kids have been living in SoCal for the last few months after immigrating from the P.I. Now they are moving to O-town next week, and I'm a little weirded out, frankly, in the way that happens when values or concepts you've held to all your life suddenly change. I'm going to "meet" them later this week; I'm looking forward to it, in the sense that I can connect a little bit more to my history, though I don't feel like there's any hole in my life that needs to be filled.
Leaving Belltown
It's not just about money, though. I'm liking the sense of freedom that renting offers; I don't feel the need to get rooted down to any particular place, I can try on different neighborhoods for size, see how it fits me. Which gets me back to the headline of this post. I've been in Belltown for nearly two years, and while I appreciate the conveniences of being in the middle of the "action," truth is, I didn't take much of an advantage of them while I was here. I'll miss being within stumbling distance of the hottest bars in town, the view of Elliott Bay, the view of the chick in the apartment across the street, and that's about it. I've applied to another building and should find out soon if I'm their type. It's a little more money, but somewhat quieter; there's an Irish pub downstairs and a Whole Foods under construction 3 blocks away (I don't know which is more dangerous).
If all goes as planned, I'll be moving in 2 weeks. I'll keep you all posted.
05 September 2005
18 August 2005
China
Hmm. 2 weeks in China with my parents and brother. Should be fun, though I learned a couple things when I went with them to Florida earlier this year. 1) Bring earplugs 2) Find some time for myself. Maybe I'll just pay for a separate hotel room, heh heh.
17 August 2005
A random story...
Him: Hello, my friend, can I interest you in some theater tickets?
Me: No, thanks.
Him: Bus tour?
Me: Nope.
Him: Museum discounts?
Me (walking faster): No.
Him (perhaps sensing he's losing me, now in a more conspirational tone): Pussy?
Me (pausing, maybe a little too long): Uhh, no thanks.
Him: Well, let me know if you change your mind...
Me (giving him the "twin six-shooters" hand signal): Ok.
13 August 2005
In Defense of Intelligent Design
Some find that hard to believe, so it may be helpful to tell you a little more about our beliefs. We have evidence that a Flying Spaghetti Monster created the universe. None of us, of course, were around to see it, but we have written accounts of it. We have several lengthy volumes explaining all details of His power. Also, you may be surprised to hear that there are over 10 million of us, and growing. We tend to be very secretive, as many people claim our beliefs are not substantiated by observable evidence. What these people don’t understand is that He built the world to make us think the earth is older than it really is. For example, a scientist may perform a carbon-dating process on an artifact. He finds that approximately 75% of the Carbon-14 has decayed by electron emission to Nitrogen-14, and infers that this artifact is approximately 10,000 years old, as the half-life of Carbon-14 appears to be 5,730 years. But what our scientist does not realize is that every time he makes a measurement, the Flying Spaghetti Monster is there changing the results with His Noodly Appendage. We have numerous texts that describe in detail how this can be possible and the reasons why He does this. He is of course invisible and can pass through normal matter with ease.Yes! It's all starting to make sense for me now...Seriously, if ID becomes part of the public school cirriculum, then they need to teach other creation theories as well (Hindu, Aztec, Native American, Muslim, Scientology et al). At any rate, I like the imagery better than Christianity.
11 August 2005
Thought for the day
Not really good for anything,
But it would bring a smile to your face
If you could push them down a flight of stairs
(via email, dunno who wrote it)
09 August 2005
On the way to Warsaw
The day after the accident the plan was for D, C and me to take the train up to Warsaw to meet up with J and K. I was excited, since this would be my first train trip in Europe, though that was tempered somewhat by the events of the previous day and basically of the previous year (I've had a string of transportation related mishaps lately, for some reason). We borrow K's aunt's car for the trip up to Lodz, which is Poland's second largest city and where we would catch the train. K's dad and sister gave us a quick drive thru tour of town- lots of old crumbling factory buildings, a large palace and Europe's longest shopping street. We did stop at the cathedral for a quick walkaround, where we saw a replica of the Shroud of Turin.
We exchange warm goodbyes with Krzystof and Kasia, who make sure that we get on the right train and are comfortable in our compartment, which we share with a lone businessman. About 45 minutes later the train stops, which we've done a couple times already to allow another train to switch tracks and pass. This time, though, was different-I look out the window and see people milling about outside on the tracks. Odd. A few minutes later the conductor comes in, talking rather animatedly to the crowd that's now gathered in the corridor. People are asking questions, and the conductor gives both a shrug and the two palms down "keep calm" gesture; now I'm starting to get concerned. David asks around for someone who speaks English, a woman explains that the train in front of us has derailed and we're heading back to the last station so that we can be taken around the accident via bus. Bus? Okaaayyyy....
A few minutes later the train jerks into motion and once again we're moving, backwards. We stop in Rogow, a town apparently big enough to have an actual station, but not much else. Our businessman companion, who up until now had been completely silent, tells us to get off the train and wait by the station for the bus, which will take us up ahead of the wreck, where we will catch another train that will take us to Warsaw. We thank him, gather our gear, and disembark, following the crowd up a footbridge and over the tracks, gathering around a newsstand across the road from the station.
Since we're going to be late, David and I try to find a phone so that we can call K and let her know we're running late. The phone in the station is out, there aren't any other phones around and we don't know enough Polish to borrow someone's cell (I did bring a phrasebook, but it's from the '50s-curses!). So we wait, hoping our hosts up ahead will find out what's happening. The crowd stirs, and our compartment-mate finds us and tells us to get back on the train; somehow they've found a way around the accident. "I'm going home," he says. "No reason to go to work today." Rather than go back up and over the footbridge, we squeeze through a hole in fence to cross the tracks and get back on the train.* (Here's the station and our buddy)
By now we're probably 2 hours behind schedule, hopefully J and K aren't too worried. I'm wondering if I shouldn't be worried; my transportation karma is coming back to bite me on the ass or something...we eventually pass the train wreck:
It looks like that car full of gravel lost control, plowed into the platform and jumped the track. Kinda cool; I've never seen a derailed car and fortunately no one appeared to be hurt. We finally arrived at Warsaw's main station, found a phone and called K. Apparently news travels a bit slower in Poland: J's first words to us may have been "Where the fuck have you guys been?" He and K had been looking for us, going so far as to buy a ticket ahead one stop, thinking we may have gotten off at the wrong station. We explained what had happened, even showing him the pictures I had snapped of the accident...
08 August 2005
The dirty joke thread
A tourist was strolling through a small seaside village when he happened upon an old man, sitting on the edge of a dock, sobbing quietly to himself. Concerned, the tourist asked what was wrong. The old man looked up, his eyes red and moist, and pointed to a fishing boat tied up at the end of the dock. "See that boat? Every day for 28 years, I made my living on that boat, no matter what the weather or sea conditions. But do they call me George the Fisherman? No!"
"See that house on the hill behind you? I built that all by myself, and 40 years later, it's still standing, without a single leak or crack in the plaster. But do they call me George the Carpenter? No!"
"And that vineyard over there? I started it from just a few scraggly, half-dead plants, now my wines are famous all over the world, sampled by presidents and celebrities. But do they call me George the Winemaker? NO!" He was back to crying at this point. "But fuck one goat..."
Now it's your turn...
07 August 2005
Oh, the day's not over yet...
The last thing I wanted to do after the accident was get into another car, but Kasia wanted to show us around some more, so after a little nap David, Cheri and I squeezed into her car, a yellow Fiat (Gulp!) and drove down to Lask (my keyboard doesn't render the characters properly, but is pronounced "wask"), about 10 minutes from Kolumna. It's about 20:00 now, dusk just starting to fall as the town settles down for the evening. Most places were already closed, so we just wandered around, first stopping by the main church in the center of town then walked through town square. There's a second, smaller church in town, whose name escapes me, but was originally Protestant before being converted to Catholic some time ago, and now serves the armed forces community (I believe there's an air base nearby).
Anyhoo, what's remarkable about this church is that it's made entirely of wood, probably the only such structure within miles of here (I think the forests had disappeared many moons ago, so almost all structures here are masonry). The dark exterior stain smelled suspiciously of creosote...that's a photo of it up top (not mine-taken from this site). We walked around the outside a little and were just about to move on when the front door opened and an older lady stepped out, presumably the caretaker. Kasia wanted to show us the inside so she talked to the lady a little and we were allowed in. We dropped a few zloty in the collection box and wandered around the main floor. It was kind of like being in a log cabin, with big timbers and logs used as the primary structure (we later learn the wood used was larch), the lectern was decorated with seashells and stones, and there were beautiful vibrant paintings scattered throughout. We learn that they are struggling with upkeep, not suprising as we're standing in a wood structure that's several centuries old; we can see water stains in the ceiling above us. The caretaker points a finger upwards: do you want to see?
Sure, we nod, thinking we'll get to hang out in the choir balcony and get closer to the ceiling (maybe she's thinking these "rich" Americans will donate to the cause). We climb the narrow stairs to find the caretaker in the far corner, fishing around for something; it's a string, which she yanks on and a tiny trap door swings open, some 12 feet above our heads. Wait, what? Next thing you know this lady's swinging around a 15' aluminum ladder and sets it in the opening, climbing up like she does this every day. I look up and see a hand beckoning; we look at each other, shrug "what the hell," and follow her up (though it took a little convincing for Kasia).
The attic is dark and everything you touch leaves you sooty. The caretaker points out some of the temporary fixes for the roof, ranging from plastic sheeting to expandable foam spray for the bigger gaps. After the tour, we climb back down, wash up and thank the caretaker. We walk around town a little more, then head back home for dinner with the parents. Not wanting to make K's mom cook after a long day, we head out for pizza. If I remember correctly, it was ham, cheese and corn pizza, which was a bit strange, but not bad. After dinner, they insisted that we stay with them rather than go back to the hotel. That was mighty nice of them, though at the time I was hoping for some Fred time to decompress (plus I was needing to drop a big deuce and didn't want to do that at someone's house). But, we couldn't refuse their hospitality and so we bed down for the night, wondering how much more excitement we could take in one trip.
Accident at the Manhatan
The next morning after breakfast we toured the castle and grounds, including the town across the river. It was a beautiful sunny day, and the plan later was to head to Lodz, which at one time was the primary textile center for Europe. We were scooting back home, conversation ranging from the scenery to Polish driving habits when one of us spied a gas station named "Manhatan", which we thought kind of funny, a bit of America here in the middle of Poland. Suddenly I heard a commotion up front; coupled with a jerk left, then right, of the van, I realized quickly that something was wrong. I look to the front (D, C and I were in the very back of the minivan) and saw a little Fiat stopped in the road, presumably to turn left into the Manhatan. It was apparent that we couldn't go around, due to the lack of shoulder, and also that we weren't going to stop in time, given the speed and the fact that this van was carrying 9 people at the time. We dive under hard braking, and I hear the tires squeal as I brace myself against the seat in front of me. I would like to say that I had some profound insight into life's mysteries at that moment, but all I had time for was "Oh shit, we're gonna..."
BAM! We hit the Fiat's back right corner, sending it spinning counterclockwise, towards the culvert that went under the gas station's driveway. That it did not end up in the ditch is a miracle, but I think it did catch the driveway curb, which caused the car to barrel roll once, landing upright. Now the Fiat is almost facing us directly, and I remember looking through the opening where the windshield used to be, into the eyes of the Fiat's occupants, which were wide open in shock at what just happened. A few seconds of complete silence passed (though to me it felt like minutes) as everyone seemed to do a mental inventory of their physical selves. Am I still alive? Ok, good. What's next?
Suddenly the quiet broke into angry Polish, and people poured from their vehicles, gathering into a group in front of the battered Fiat. All except for D, C and myself, still sitting in the back of the van, wondering what else could happen. I heard "Uh, Fred, let's get the fuck outta here," realizing then that we're sitting ducks if we stay in the van, which had basically traded places with the Fiat. Safely on the side of the road, I saw the Poles were still engaged in a tense exchange with each other. We Americans removed ourselves to a shady spot far from the action to begin the decompression process. K's mom received a bump on the leg, and it looked like the driver of the Fiat banged his arm a little bit, but otherwise everyone was fine physically. My next thought was to grab the camera and snap a few pictures, but I thought better of it, it just seemed wrong at the time.
We were now killing time, waiting for the police to show up. A few locals gathered to survey the scene. D and I grabbed some Cokes (sweet-in glass bottles!). The police arrived about an hour later, administering breathalyzer tests to both drivers (both coming up .00); after a quick check of the van, we were back on our way. I have to admit, during the ride back my ass was puckered up tighter than a sheep's during WSU frat rush week, each bump and shimmy adding to my already nervous state. We finally pulled into the driveway at home, my main thought being "I could really use a nap right now." The plan to go to Lodz that day was shelved, since we got back a little late and J and K had to take J's mom to Warsaw so she could head back to the states. Instead K's sister, Kasia, took D, C and me to Lask to wander around. But that's another story.
06 August 2005
I've been published (sort of)
The site is 43 Places, which at first blush seems like flickr for travelers (they're run by a local company, so gotta support that). I'll dig around the site a little, maybe start an account, and tell you what it's like once I get a feel for it.
Oh BTW, this page doesn't come up anywhere, in the first 10 pages anyway. Gotta figure out how to change that.
04 August 2005
Most Interesting?
In case you're wondering, here's my least interesting photo:
Jim and Kryzsia's big fat Polish wedding, Epilogue
Big mistake. The sight and smell of food sends my stomach into a violent lurch; I can't go back into the bathroom-they're still cleaning up. I see the outdoor deck and head straight for the rail...God, I hope there isn't anyone down there...and let fly. The splat splat splat from my payload hitting a metal shed down below, plus the sight of me leaning over the guardrail catches the attention of the small group gathered outside. Well, no point in trying to maintain any sense of dignity now, sitting down on the nearest bench to just not cause any further damage, though my preference at the time was to spontaneously combust.
Here's where the warmth and the hospitality of the Polish people will forever be impressed into my memory--I'm barely seated 5 minutes when one of the old guys I was drinking with brings out a cup of hot tea, motioning for me to drink; someone nearby says I need to drink it as fast as I can, which seems to have two benefits: it sobers me up quickly and also gets the taste of puke out of my mouth, since I have no more functioning tastebuds. K's uncle joins us and we "talk," about what I don't remember, but now I've forgotten (temporarily) about the episode, the fog slowly starting to lift. I remember seeing Monika one more time, she came outside to see how I was doing, then she was gone. Goddamn, I'm good.
The rest of the morning went uneventfully, for me anyway, though I spent it helping keep an eye on David, who was still completely sauced, just to make sure he didn't hurt himself. We finally piled into the van as daylight broke, driven home by a young fellow named Janusz, who patiently sat through the entire reception-without drinking, mind you, since he was driving-waiting for us Americans to ask to be taken home (David and I had spent some time the night before with Janusz talking about grunge and, oh, our testicles. Very entertaining). I think it was 7 by the time I finally sank into bed. The final box score:
Days in Poland: 2.25
Weddings attended: 1
Shots of vodka consumed (est.): 15
Bathrooms cleared: 1
Pictures taken (est.): 40
Polish babes successfully picked up: 0
*Though I didn't realize it, I find out later that Adam, K's cousin, was a few yards behind me the entire time, making sure I didn't get mugged. Many thanks.
03 August 2005
Jim and Kryzsia's big fat Polish wedding, Part 3
We sit down for the 2 am course, I think it was stroganoff. Anyway, I'm 3 bites into it and my bowels start to rebel, a result of the excessive travel, pork, potatoes and various forms of cabbage over the last 3 days catching up to me. I excuse myself and shuffle off to the bathroom. As I'm sitting there, it becomes apparent that my alcohol consumption had reached the point of violent returns. Now, I haven't finished my initial project, yet this new one had been dropped into the inbox with "urgent" stamped on it, a head-scratching dilemma if ever there was one. Given my drunken state, the choice was pretty simple: I multitasked (kinda reminds me of this [ warning: funny but gross] story though the results weren't nearly as catastrophic). Miraculously, I managed to keep my suit free of flying chunks, so I cleaned up as best I could, washed up and exited the bathroom, thinking I was home free.
I needed some air, and I had two choices: back through the reception hall to the outdoor terrace or the main entrance and street downstairs. I chose street, wanting to keep a low profile with a mild embarrassment starting to set in. I picked my way down the steps slowly, mustering up the full capacity of every neuron not yet saturated with vodka. I made it down to the second to last step, proud of my pending accomplishment-suddenly I'm on my ass, looking into the shocked faces of the group gathered in the lobby, including Jim, Krzysia, and, to my horror, Monika. Goddamn these dress shoes and tiled floors! I mumbled something halfway intelligible about being fine and nearly ran out the front door, my head feeling like it was the size of a baseball.
02 August 2005
Jim and Kryzsia's big fat Polish wedding, Part 2
J carried K across the threshold, then met by K’s parents who presented them with bread and salt, symbolizing that the couple would never be without life’s necessities. We toasted, then found our seats. I ended up at the head table, next to the best man, thinking maybe there was a mistake in the seating arrangement. I was doublechecking my place card when my peripheral vision caught brown hair and blue chiffon settling into the seat next to me. Must be Monika. I introduced myself, she introduced herself. And her friend. Robert. Crap, well, no pressure now, just relax and have fun.
We were being served our first course by now, and I noticed that the little shot glass at my seat was already full of wodka, and soon after that we were on our feet for another toast. This early, people were only taking sips of their vodka, so I did likewise, immediately chasing it with a little water, or juice, whatever was on hand. Generally, food courses appeared every half hour or so,between which were toasts or some dancing or songs or encouragements to get J and K to smooch. As time went on, my sips turned into gulps turned into bottoms up, the catering staff always making sure you had a full glass.
Meanwhile, conversation with Monika went well (and admittedly with Robert also. Suppposedly he was just a "friend," and we had an interesting chat about progressive guitar rock), I learned she was living in London and, well, I was going to be passing thru London, how about that? She said I'll give you my number later and maybe show you around. He shoots, he scores! Wait, Frank, let's see the instant replay...yep, he doesn't get the number as soon as it's offered, that may come back to bite him...
Jim and Kryzsia's big fat Polish wedding, Part 1
A thunderstorm rolled through the area just minutes before the ceremony was about to start, sending the guests scurrying to the church’s front door. J and K arrived last; their journey from home had been interrupted several times by “roadblocks” put up by the locals. This was one of the traditions-neighbors who were not attending the wedding block the bride and groom’s caravan, their free passage to the church in exchange for some vodka (most Polish traditions seem to involve vodka in some fashion-gotta love it). The ceremony itself was not all that different than the Catholic weddings I’ve attended here, which made it easy to follow along, even though I couldn’t understand what exactly was being said all the time.
01 August 2005
Monster Engine
Dave Devries is an artist who takes children's artwork and fleshes them out a bit...does he capture the exact spirit of the kids' imaginations or does his interpretations become something else entirely? I tend to think the latter, in the sense that his art is probably not as vivid as the picture the original artist had in mind. In any case, I like it.
Old and New Europe
It will be interesting to visit again in maybe 10 years, to see how things have changed, or not. It seems to me that the Slovenes will cope better than their neighbors; they seem to be a pragmatic people, and have a strong economy that already puts them in an advantageous position, despite only having joined the EU in the last couple of years.
31 July 2005
One final souvenir...
Fuck fuck fuckety fuck-more insurance hell.
Edit/Update 8.12.05: Got a call back from Progressive; the repair estimate came in at about $4200. Whoa!
30 July 2005
I'm back, biatches!
Even though my trip is over, I'll keep adding to this, some stories that I wanted to tell but didn't have the time, observations, questions, etc...
28 July 2005
London
a quickie, at a free teminal at my hotel just off piccadilly
circus...even after being in central europe for the last 3 weeks, i
have never feared for my life as much as i have in the last 3 hours
here...keep forgetting abour the driving on the left side thing,
nearly run over by several taxis on more than one occassion...noticed
they paint 'look left' and 'look right' in the crosswalks for idiots
like me...i'll buzz thru the main sights tomorrow and call it a
july...see you back home.
27 July 2005
Dubrovnik
Dubrovnik feels more Italian than anything, even the Serbo-Croatian has a bit of Italian lilt to it. Its fun to stroll the strada in the evening just people watching, or catch some live music in one of the many outdoor cafes. Whats great is that the locals mix with the tourists, and the whole place becomes a sort of giant outdoor night club. Very romantic, I guess. Today, Ill catch a few more sights and try to stay out of the sun (got a nice burn in Split), then its off to London tomorrow before coming home Saturday. I think Im ready to come home; its been fun, but im tired and missing Seattle.
25 July 2005
Split
I took the night train from Zagreb, my last train leg for this trip. I had high hopes of fulfilling my fantasy of sharing a compartment with 5 cute coeds (boom chick-a bow-wow!) in search of themselves; instead, I get 3 sweaty Croats (dudes, of course). It didn't take long before that compartment started smelling like B.O., bad breath and moldy dog ass, my contribution to which being more than I care to imagine. We arrive in Split at 6 this morning, so I stow my bag and hit the sights before the city wakes up. The main attraction of the city, besides being on the Adriatic, is the Roman Emperor Diocletian's retirement home, a 600x600' palace right in the middle of the city.
Here in Croatia people don't greet you with "Hello." Instead, they say "Sobe?" which means "room." An underground industry of renting out private rooms to backpackers seems to flourish here, so I decide what the hell. I talk to an old lady, we agree on a price (160 kuna, about 25 bucks) and follow her home, about 5 minutes outside of the town center. I thought it was her home, but I think she's just a runner, because the owners of the home have already prepared their living room for me. Just like staying at grandma's house.
24 July 2005
Ljubljana
Tonight, Ill take the train back to Zagreb, then connect with the night train to Split. Beaches, here I come!
Budapest
Wednesday: I always have about an hour of frustration when arriving in a new city-getting my bearings, getting money (and getting small bills), figuring out transportation, etc. Budapest is no exception. So again, I find myself humping my stuff over to my hotel, which is just off Andrassy Ut, one of the main drags thru town, in the diplomatic section of Budapest (the Chinese embassy is a few buildings away). Its also 2 blocks from a metro stop-Budapests underground metro system is, well, charming. Its pretty shallow, the stations are small, tiled and clean, and the trains run about every 3 minutes. I explore the downtown reaches of Andrassy, head down Vajza Utca-the tourist shop gauntlet and stop in the Great Market Hall at the southern end. The hall is a giant arcade with ground floor produce, meat and bread vendors, with souvenir stalls and a few street food joints up above. Sounds a little like Pike Place, but not really. There dont seem to be any of the individual producers and doesnt have the street fair vibe of Seattle. I got a big plate of goulash and a coke for about $4-great place for a quick lunch. For dinner, I hang out with my fellow yuppies at one of the trendy eateries along Franz Liszt square.
Thursday: Ride the funicular to the top of Castle Hill. Nothing too remarkable, except that theyre excavating what was a former Jewish settlement. I grab a burger at TGI Fridays-western restaurants are everywhere and I hear thats what people around here do. Besides, Im in the mood for a burger.
Friday: Visit the House of Terror, which documents the reign of two separate, yet equally harsh regimes-the Arrowcross (sort of like a Hungarian Gestapo), and the AVO, which was the Communist secret police. The museum is in their former HQ, and features a Soviet tank atop a reflecting pool, with pictures of victims lining the walls of the atrium. Powerful. Later, I toured the Hungarian Parliament building and strolled along the Danube.
Prague
Saturday: I was >< that close to selling my body just to get 80 crowns to buy a transit ticket-the bankomats (ATMs) only give out big bills and the small vendors around here freak out when you try to buy a coke with a 10,000 crown bill. So I walked to the Old Town and took in the sights: Wenceslas Square, Kings Walk, Charles Bridge, Town Square. One interesting sight off the beaten path is the Mucha Museum-featuring works of the Art Deco artist famous for his Parisian posters. The hotel is way out of the way in one of the neighborhoods, but right on a tram line so getting there wasnt too bad.
Sunday: More wandering around...
Monday: Hiked up the hill to Prague Castle. A lot of the major sights in Prague are being restored, which is good, but didnt make for good photos.
Tuesday: Side trip to Cesky Krumlov, a little town about 4 hours south by train. Toured the Castle grounds (what self-respecting medieval town doesnt have a castle?) and watched tourists float down the Vltva river. Theres one little section with some rapids where the kayakers and rafters try to make it through; some did, most didnt. Then back to Prague for the night train to Budapest.
Pics Pending
21 July 2005
Astronomical Clock, Prague
One Pivo, Two Pivo, Three Pivo, Floor
Pay to Pee
Old Town, Warsaw
18 July 2005
Unieow Castle
Catching Up
I'm more than a week behind, so I'll hit the highlights:
Saturday: Wedding. Ceremony started 16:30, left reception 0700 the
next morning. Drunk waaaaay to much (their hand signal for "let's
drink" is similar to our "cut this guy off." Seriously.) But David
drank more and, well, ask him for that story. Tons of fun.
Sunday: Backyard BBQ. A common misconception is that Poland is
Eastern Europe, which is what I've been calling it all along. I stand
corrected: Poles consider themselves Central Europeans. Russia is
eastern Europe. Going to spend the night at Unieow castle.
Monday: Toured the castle, grounds and nearby town. Got into a
little fender-bender (everyone's ok, but this deserves its own
entry-some other time). Spent some time up in the rafters of a little
church in Lask. Had pizza with corn-strange to me but it wasn't bad.
Tuesday: Drive-thru tour of Lodz before we catch the train to Warsaw.
About 30 minutes into it we stop and are told there's a derailment up
ahead, so we backtrack a little and get off, supposedly so a bus can
take us around the crash. We end up getting back on the train and
continuing on, arriving 2 hours late. I am bad transportation karma
personified. Tour Warsaw (hard to believe this place was completely
levelled 60 years ago), spend the night at K's friend's mom's
apartment. Oh yeah: Polish women-FIIIIIIIINNNNNEEEE! I think I have
whiplash.
Wednesday: Krakow. I split up from Dave and Cheri, who try to find
their way to the salt mines. I hang around the Jewish quarter before
meeting them for dinner-I am craving something besides cabbage, so we
go for Mexican, which comes with-yup, coleslaw. Goddamn. Have a
drink at a jazz club before they head off for Prague. Yikes, now I'm
alone.
Thursday: Auschwitz/Birkenau. Not much new to be said but just a
real palpable sense of sadness. It took a lot of willpower for me
just to stay and see everything.
Friday: Hanging around Krakow some more, just people watching, then
the night train to Prague. shared a sleeper compartment with a
Brazilian and two Germans (who ended up nearly naked-ha! What did I
tell you!).
Saturday/Sunday/Monday: Prague. Hotel is far from the city center so
I get familiar with the transit system, which works beautifully.
Beautiful narrow cobblestone streets, large squares, churches, the
whole nine. Tomorrow I'll visit Cesky Krumlov then off to Budapest to
meet up with my friend Tibor, an architect in Seattle.
15 July 2005
Male bonding, or "How do you say 'testicles' in Polish?"
Between steps, we found a way to talk about families, food, volleyball and she-devil women who keep their men's testicles in little boxes (since they don't need them anymore). By the way, the glabki was a hit...
Answer to question above: "ja-ja," which is also "eggs."
11 July 2005
Dzien dobry!
I'm several days behind, so I'll try to keep this updated in small
chunks: The trip over was uneventful, save for a couple tense moments
during the layover in Copenhagen, where we first learned of the London
bombings. From where I stood, everything was business as usual, which
is much different than the reaction I expected from the US, which is
to go on high alert.
We landed in Warsaw during a thunderstorm, which makes for a
convenient yet cliched metaphor for what we were to expect for the
next few days. JM and KW, along with JM's mom LM (who had arrived a
few hours earlier) and KW's dad, KW (let's say Chris)-LM's checked
baggage had been "delayed," which was the one kink in what was
otherwise a smooth arrival.
We piled into Chris' van and headed out. Now, I've heard that driving
in some foreign countries can make the most hardcore atheist find
religion, but while I wouldn't call the drive to Kolumna relaxing, it
wasn't white-knuckle either. To us Ameriyki, the technique seems a
bit aggressive, and shoulder driving is common (2 lane roads are
effectively 3 lanes, the middle one for passing). Needless to say,
you don't see many bikes on the busier roads.
4 hours later, we're in Kolumna, which is a small district outside of
the town of Pabianice (pah-bee-a-NEE-tsay). At this point I've been
up for more than 24 hours. Here's our hotel:
www.hotel-unia.pl
05 July 2005
Krakow, the Paris of Eastern Europe
The city of Krakow, Poland, has that alchemic mix of history, architecture, art, and laid-back cafe culture that so many foreigners look for in Paris—but for a quarter of the price and with none of the attitude. I've lived in Paris for the last 10 months, so I barely knew what to make of Krakow's cheerful and attentive waiters. Even stranger was the opportunity to eat an excellent meal for two, with wine, for $20.Another article in the Slate series.
04 July 2005
Get your Gmail invites!
Flickr + Canon
I went ahead and bought a fancy new camera as well; I wanted to document the trip as best I can, and felt I could do that with the 20d better than my G2, which is now in AT's capable hands. I've always had an interest in photography, what better way to further develop those skills than with a nice camera? Unfortunately, I've also rendered the rest of my equipment obsolete (an AE-1 Program circa 1985) because it's so old, so I've got to start over with the filters, lenses, etc. I always pick the expensive hobbies. Know anyone who would be interested in a starter SLR?
On to the business at hand
July
6-7: Seattle-Warsaw. J and K will pick us up at the airport and we'll hang out in Warsaw for the evening.
8: Head down to Kolumna (I think-that's where the wedding is anyway and I hear the whole town's gonna be there), a couple hours outside Warsaw. Reception is in Pabianice.
9: Wedding. JM says that he's ordered a buttload of vodka, basically a bottle for every person. Pray for my liver.
10-11: Castle side trip and Lodz, which is the center of the Polish textile trade, and a beautiful town in it's own right.
12: Back to Warsaw to see off J's mom, more sightseeing in the city. Maybe the Treblinka concentration camp, then to Krakow.
13-15: Krakow/Auschwitz. DG, CG and I will go down to Krakow. They'll be there a short time before they head off to Prague, while I'll stick around for a little while longer to see the city and visit the concentration camps of Auschwitz and Birkenau. From what I hear, Krakow is the new Paris, with better value for the dollar and no snotty French people (just kidding, I love zee French).
16-19: Prague, perhaps a side trip to Cesky-Krumlov or the town of Pilsen (think beer).
20-23: Budapest
24: Ljubljana, Slovenia
25-26: Split, Croatia. The Dalmatian coast-time to work on that tan.
27-28: Dubrovnik, Croatia. No, I won't be stepping into the middle of a war zone, though this area didn't escape the recent conflicts.
28-30: London and home. Europe by Air (link) offers links between cities for only $99US per leg.
That's enough, no?
Welcome
Secondly, I want to go beyond the dry accounting of my day to day activities; my intent is for this to continue as a place to dump any thoughts, profound or otherwise, that run through my head before I forget them. Basically it'll be a measure of where I'm "at," literally and figuratively. It's a bit scary putting myself out there, again literally and figuratively, but I think it'll be good for me to share more of my life with friends and family (it's taken a few years of therapy to get to this point, so I have that going for me-thanks RS!). I'll apologize in advance if the content gets a little edgy, or the language coarse, but those of you who know me well (and that's most of you reading this) know I'm as likely to drop an f-bomb as I am to drop some knowledge on your ass (oh yeah, I'm also quite fond of the parenthetical aside). So, bookmark this page (extra points if you set up an RSS feed instead), check in once in awhile, and feel free to leave a comment. Stay tuned.